Need advice on installing and running a new sump pump
#1
02-09-19, 07:43 AM
Need advice on installing and running a new sump pump
The current setup is 1.25 inch pvc, code is 1.5 so im gonna be running new pvc.. Right now there is no check valve so ill be putting one in, thinking zoeller, are those good?
Ive seen pictures of installs angling it towards the wall at 45 then back up and then 90 out of the house, like I drew in the picture.....is that a good idea and what's the reason? Is there a better way?
Where exactly should I place the check valve?
And where should I place the easy disconnect sleeve?
Thanks for all the help, here's a post of me overthinking everything lol.
Ive seen pictures of installs angling it towards the wall at 45 then back up and then 90 out of the house, like I drew in the picture.....is that a good idea and what's the reason? Is there a better way?
Where exactly should I place the check valve?
And where should I place the easy disconnect sleeve?
Thanks for all the help, here's a post of me overthinking everything lol.
Last edited by PJmax; 02-09-19 at 11:50 AM. Reason: enlarged picture
#2
02-09-19, 09:47 AM
Member
45 or 90's for the plumbing wont make a huge difference with that short run.
Check valve can go anywhere but usually are installed right above lid which makes it convenient to disassemble the pump meaning you really wont need the second sleeve.
So why are you replacing, just to upsize to 1 1/2"? Personally if functioning Id just leave it alone and fix the next time you replace pump!
Check valve can go anywhere but usually are installed right above lid which makes it convenient to disassemble the pump meaning you really wont need the second sleeve.
So why are you replacing, just to upsize to 1 1/2"? Personally if functioning Id just leave it alone and fix the next time you replace pump!
#3
02-09-19, 11:57 AM
Group Moderator
Doesn't really matter if the piping is straight or goes back to the wall. Make sure the fittings are properly prepped and glued so they don't pop apart. The rubber splice is located low so that the pump can be easily removed without messing with the piping. It also acts like a vibration isolater.
Check valves can be a little touchier. The lower the valve is...... closer to the pump..... can close louder with more water above them. Some actually bang closed. Raising it can help stop that.
Check valves can be a little touchier. The lower the valve is...... closer to the pump..... can close louder with more water above them. Some actually bang closed. Raising it can help stop that.
#4
02-09-19, 06:07 PM
I bought a new pump, the old one works but who knows when it'll go. the screws on the float switch are rusted out so I have it adjusted with a zip tie for the past 2 years. I just picked up a 1.5 to 1.25 reducer so I don't have to mess with the pipe going outside
#5
02-10-19, 05:32 AM
Member
Hopefully you invested in a good pump like a Liberty or Wayne and not one of the POC pumps sold at big box stores?
We all know they sell for cheap price point, not quality, a cheap pump will always fail when needed, it's written in stone!
We all know they sell for cheap price point, not quality, a cheap pump will always fail when needed, it's written in stone!
#6
02-10-19, 05:38 AM
Member
Zoeller is perhaps the best pump you can buy at the consumer level. Placement of the check valve is not critical (but I like Marq's suggestion). The main purpose is to prevent all the water in the vertical pipe from going back into the pit. So you decide where to put it. Personally, I don't use any check valve. BTW...the rubber sleeve is commonly referred to as Furnco fitting.
Edit...the reason I don't use a check valve is because when I do need to service the pump, all the water standing in the vertical pipe has got to go somewhere, and it's under pressure. Although about 15 feet of water dumps back into the pit, the pump does not overwork on normal days.And nearly 100% of the time the service work will involve removing the check valve, and that means I get all wet! Haven't needed to service the pump in over 5 years so far.
Edit...the reason I don't use a check valve is because when I do need to service the pump, all the water standing in the vertical pipe has got to go somewhere, and it's under pressure. Although about 15 feet of water dumps back into the pit, the pump does not overwork on normal days.And nearly 100% of the time the service work will involve removing the check valve, and that means I get all wet! Haven't needed to service the pump in over 5 years so far.
#8
02-12-19, 10:50 AM
yea I was deciding between zoeller and Jim Murray. My current one doesn't have a check valve either and I haven't had a problem. Usually shoots all of it out right away, I just want to put one in since it seems to be the norm
#9
02-12-19, 11:10 AM
Group Moderator
It's not mandatory to install a check valve. It's only purpose is to keep the water from coming back and refilling the pit. If the horizontal discharge line is long enough..... the water draining out of that line creates a siphon that draws the water out of the vertical line to the pump.
