but it never worked as it should as every now and then the pump would not eject and we would need to manually need to plug the pump directly into the AC Outlet. We replaced the same pump 2 times so 3 pumps total with same issue.
A plumber told me what we should have done was to get a matching set of basin and pump but now I am wondering what options we may have to replace that basin since that basin had concrete around it in order to replace it with a matching basin and pump set, any ideas please?
Do you see how your pump has a float switch on the end of the cord. That needs room to freely float around without hanging up on the side of the pit. There are other designs where the float is mounted to a rigid rod and can only go straight up and down, reducing the chance that it will get caught on something. There are also solid state switches with no moving parts that can control a pump.
You just need to mount the switch somewhere it can sense the liquid level. It doesn't have to be on the pump. Keep in mind that for a device like Level Guard the motor cannot have it's own float switch. If it does you need to remove it and wire the pump so it runs continuously since the switch (Level Guard) will turn the power on and off to the pump. Also, there are other brands and styles. Level Guard is just the first photo I found.
What he was saying is, instead of removing the switch just tie it in the up/on position. That will make the pump want to run all the time. Then plug the pump in the switched socket of the Level Guard to actually control the pump. This saves you the work of removing the float and possibly voiding the pump's warranty. It also means you don't risk damaging any waterproofing by removing the switch.
What is the pump plugged into normally? You say you move the plug to a AC outlet to get it to work. How does the sewage get into your basin? From the top or side? Is the float on the side of the pump away from where the sewage come in so nothing interferes with the float moving freely?
Is the basin too small and the float on the pump rubs the side? Even when matching basin and pumps are installed I doubt people change both when the pump goes bad they would just replace the pump.
If plugging the pump directly into the receptacle, bypassing the switch, causes the pump to operate then the problem is with the switch. Once you do that, do you then plug the pump back into the switch and it works OK for a while? If so, the problem is likely that the switch is hanging up on something (or the float is leaking and is waterlogged). (You can test this by manually pulling up the float with a stick or wire and seeing if the pump runs.) I can only imagine that the plumber told you to replace the basin because he/she thought the switch was hanging up and you need a bigger basin. But that basin should be fine for that pump unless the position of the drain line is holding the pump against the side of the basin instead of centered.
If after you plug the pump directly into the receptacle and then back into the switch, it never operates normally again, then the switch is failing.
I suggest you buy a better pump, like a zoeller m53, and make sure it is positioned in the sump so the switch cannot hang up. Also, make sure the the switch isn't positioned under the pipe that is draining into the sump, as the flowing water can also prevent the float from rising.
I'm not following..... that float switch is built into the pump so that there is no way to bypass it.
Taking the plug out and putting it back in should not change the electrical operation.
Is the pump dead..... no sound at all or is it running and not pumping ?
If it's running and not pumping.... and you're having the same problem over and over.... the pump is airbound.
You'll need to drill a small hole in the discharge line.
It's covered in the install manual.
The pit/basin has no effect on the pump operation.
I understand what the plumber told me. If we had gotten a matching set [basin and pump] then there should be no issues.
The 3 pumps we tried were not dead. it was always the float of each pump was the problem which is why whenever we plugged the pumps directly into the AC receptacle, the pump works to drain the basin.
We had tried using a wire hanger to move the float around which would then work so we know the floats has issues with positioning in the basin and we had tried adjusting both the lengths and positions of the floats but nothing works "consistently", it would work one time then not another time.
The shower, bathroom sink and toilet are all located to the left of where the basin is. We do not want to buy another pump then end up in the same situation.
I'm curious why you keep purchasing the same "store brand" pump that is repeatedly failing. Store brands aren't generally known for high quality so I'd switch to something else. You can't do any worse and there are several reputable brands with proven long life. I have one that is 22 years old and another about 18 that are still working without trouble.
Well, we had thought it was either a mis-match of the pump and basin or setting of the pump in the basin or maybe both. We dd not purchase 3 pumps btw, only one but returned 2 of them thinking they might have been defective.
Because of the size of that basin, I cannot see that the float is being caught on something but without being able to see what's going on in the basin I have to think that yes that has to be it.
I never knew that Level guard existed, that should take care of it, THANK YOU VERY MUCH!!
Can you tell where on this pump it can that be attached please or should it be attached to the PVC ejector pipe and if yes how so it will not move up/down?
Sorry Pete I am not understanding, if I am using the level guard switch, I am thinking I will remove the pump's existing switch since it's not working?
[color=#141414]Hi all -[/color]
[color=#141414]I wanted to get your feedback on the following I've noticed with my sump pump.[/color]
[color=#141414]Sump Pump Model: Barmesa 2SEV512[/color]
[color=#141414]The pump pumps up about 1-1.5ft to a horizontal pipe that runs about 500 feet away from the home.[/color]
[color=#141414]1) Earlier today, I tested the sump pump by running a hose in the sump and it was pumping some water out (a trickle, definitely not the normal amount), but then the pump itself began vibrating and shaking as the water level rose in the basin.[/color]
[color=#141414]2) I disconnected the sump pump, submerged it in a bucket of water, and it was able to pump properly onto my lawn, which told me the pump was still operating and not burnt out.[/color]
[color=#141414]3) I waited for a while, then I reconnected the pump, went to test it again. This time, the pump worked perfectly and was able to empty the basin multiple times without fail.[/color]
[color=#141414]4) The only final thing I noticed is that after the pump emptied the basin at the end of my test, it started making a strange gurgling noise[/color]
[color=#141414]I have 2 questions:[/color]
[color=#141414]1) Any ideas as to why the pump was shaking/vibrating and not pumping, yet worked perfectly after disconnecting/reconnecting?[/color]
[color=#141414]2) Any sense what the gurgling noise is after the pump shuts off?[/color]
[color=#141414]Thanks so much![/color]
Hello,
I am wanting to add an RV Dump Station fitting to my Septic tank so i can dump my RV when i get back from camping. Should the pipe go down below the water level into the effluent water table portion of the septic tank or can it just dump out on top of it?
skeeter
10-04-22, 12:20 PM
