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Sometimes with home improvement, the answer to a question sheds light on other obstacles within your project. In the case of this DIYer, they realize that a bathtub installation needs a little more work than some furring.
What's the correct way to close the gap between the right side of the tub and the wall? Extra cement board/ply/drywall? I plan on coating the Dura Rock wall with RedGuard.
marksr Forum Topic Moderator
I'd fur it out with whatever size lumber is appropriate.
Pilot Dane Group Moderator
Yeah, you don't have enough room for something useful like a shelf, so I'd just fur the wall out to the size needed. Since you will be furing the wall it's a good time to make sure the walls are plumb which will make installing a surround or tile easier (two birds with one stone).
Don't know all the lingo here...If I'm furring out the wall, am I building it out with additional 2x4s or actually laying Dura Rock on top of plywood to build it out? Also, am I just doing the build-out for the area that will be tiled or do I have to bring the entire wall out?
I would measure to see if the window is centered between the walls. If it is, shim both side walls equally. If it isn't, shove the tub all the way to one side, and just shim one wall. Rip 2x4s on a table saw to fit between the tub and the wall studs and then nail or screw them on top of the studs. If the flange on the tub does not allow the cement board to lay flat, you may want to add a shim for that, too. Keep the cement board above the tub surface 1/2" or so.
That makes sense...as indicated in the first post, I'm only concerned about the right wall. The plumbing is in place on the left side, so I only need to worry about the right wall. The tub is perfectly level and the wall seem to be as well. Does it make sense to just fur out the tiled area or do I have to extend it down the length of the wall?
The entire wall gets furred out, not just part of it.
czizzi Forum Topic Moderator
I'm concerned that your new rough-in valve body may be out too far...If so, you may want to fur out the wall that gave you the most grief on the supply side.
chandler Forum Topic Moderator
I agree with Chris, that the head wall needs to be spaced and the heel wall needs to be flush, then fur out the head wall to help hide a little of the valve body.
ray2047 Group Moderator
Normally it's best to have access to the faucet and drain from behind so if you need to make repairs you can without ripping out tile. What's on the other side of the plumbing wall?
Isn't the front of the black plaster ring supposed to be flush with the finished surface of the tile?
How cow. As careful as I thought I was being, I'm not sure why this is wrong. Obviously I didn't measure correctly. Just finished getting all the plumbing put in last night. At least I have some room to correct it. the valve actually has no room to move into the wall, so this was inevitable. Unfortunately, this bathroom sits in a dormer, so there is access to the tub train, but not behind the valve. I guess I would have figured this out after I put up the first piece of Dura Rock. I'm sure I'll have more questions, but everyone here has helped me immensely.
Pilot Dane Group Moderator
If the valve body is mounted on an outside wall, you want to keep it as close to the heated room as possible to prevent freezing. Do you have room in your drain plumbing to move the tub to the right so you can fur out the faucet wall?
I'm replacing existing plumbing, so after 60 years and no freezing, I think I'm safe. I need to buy another PVC kit for the tub, but I shouldn't have a problem moving in and out.
To read the rest of the thread, check out the original post.