GE Over the Range Microwave 20 Amp fuse keeps blowing up
#1
Member
Thread Starter
GE Over the Range Microwave 20 Amp fuse keeps blowing up
The fuse only blows, if I open the door while its running. If I wait for it to stop or if I press stop or cancel before I open the door, it doesn't blow. It did not do that before. I use to open the door before the time ended and it did not blow the internal 20amp fuse. I don't usually open the door while the microwave is running, but in some cases I do.
I checked all three door switches two were normally opened and one is normally closed, but the are working properly. If the switches are working properly, what could cause the fuse to blow?
I checked all three door switches two were normally opened and one is normally closed, but the are working properly. If the switches are working properly, what could cause the fuse to blow?
fixitmamabear
voted this post useful.
#2
Member
Thread Starter
Its now blowing the fuse when using the Power High option.
Over-the-Range Microwave Oven Model JVM3160RF2SS
Over-the-Range Microwave Oven Model JVM3160RF2SS
#3
Unfortunately.... you may think the switches are working ok but they are not. One of the door switches is a safety switch and will dead short when the door is opened. If this switch closes before the other switches turn the microwave off.... you will blow a fuse.
You will need to check the operation of the switches. Many times the bracket that holds the switches is loose or bent,
You will need to check the operation of the switches. Many times the bracket that holds the switches is loose or bent,
#4
Member
Thread Starter
I tested the switches for continuity and open and closed the switches to see if it was functioning. All three were working and all seem to be sturdy, but I will check again. I will be removing the microwave to test the capacitor, magnetron, transformer and the thermostats. I have worked with capacitors before and I know how to discharge it. I have read it could be the capacitor, but most likely the transformer.
I don't think its the switches, since its blowing the fuse now as soon as the microwave starts. But it could be multiple things like the switches in combination with another part. Do you think it would be worth repairing or just buying another one? The microwave only lasted 2 years. I had another GE Over the Range and it lasted 9 years. I bought this one because of the excellent reviews and from previous experience with the previous one.
https://www.geapplianceparts.com/sto...y/JVM3160RF2SS
I don't think its the switches, since its blowing the fuse now as soon as the microwave starts. But it could be multiple things like the switches in combination with another part. Do you think it would be worth repairing or just buying another one? The microwave only lasted 2 years. I had another GE Over the Range and it lasted 9 years. I bought this one because of the excellent reviews and from previous experience with the previous one.
https://www.geapplianceparts.com/sto...y/JVM3160RF2SS
#5
Member
Thread Starter
I tested the capacitor and it read .90 Ohms, which is what its rated at. It also pass the continuity test, meaning it did not beep. I am having trouble figuring out, how to test the Magnetron and the Transformer. Can anyone tell me what test and what reading I should get. On the Magnetron the continuity test did not beep and I will be checking the Ohms on it today. If I remember correctly, I did the Ohms test on the Transformer and I got .7 Ohms, but I will verify that today.
On the GE RANGE THERMOSTAT I am suppose to get a continuity beep. I do get it on all except got one. But I ordered a replacement and the replacement does not have the continuity beep either. Is there another test for the RANGE THERMOSTAT ?
On the GE RANGE THERMOSTAT I am suppose to get a continuity beep. I do get it on all except got one. But I ordered a replacement and the replacement does not have the continuity beep either. Is there another test for the RANGE THERMOSTAT ?
#6
Member
Thread Starter
The Magnetron does beeps on continuity test and the Ohms were .3. on the Transformer, also continuity beeps and the Ohms were .6. The capacitor had no continuity beeps and the Ohms were .9, which match the rating. I tested the micro fuses and all have continuity, except one.
#7
I was trying to find a service manual but haven't located one.
You had said it was working normally but blew a fuse when the microwave was on and the door was opened. That would eliminate any problem with the actual microwave generating components.
I'm not sure what the power high function is. A microwave oven has only one heating stage. To control the amount of heating the microwave section is cycled on and off.
You had said it was working normally but blew a fuse when the microwave was on and the door was opened. That would eliminate any problem with the actual microwave generating components.
I'm not sure what the power high function is. A microwave oven has only one heating stage. To control the amount of heating the microwave section is cycled on and off.
#8
Member
Thread Starter
I did the the continuity test wrong on the Magnetron and Tranformer. I was testing to both electrical connections and it was suppose to be from each electrical prong to the metal case. So no continuity on Magnetron and Transformer. Everything seems to be working and I think the issue is with Thermal Fuse that is rated at 70 (no continuity), because the other fuse is rated at 120.
#9
Member
Thread Starter
I was trying to find a service manual but haven't located one.
You had said it was working normally but blew a fuse when the microwave was on and the door was opened. That would eliminate any problem with the actual microwave generating components.
I'm not sure what the power high function is. A microwave oven has only one heating stage. To control the amount of heating the microwave section is cycled on and off.
You had said it was working normally but blew a fuse when the microwave was on and the door was opened. That would eliminate any problem with the actual microwave generating components.
I'm not sure what the power high function is. A microwave oven has only one heating stage. To control the amount of heating the microwave section is cycled on and off.
Main Page https://www.geapplianceparts.com/sto...y/JVM3160RF2SS
Manual https://www.myapstore.com/MarketingO...49-40669-6.PDF
Diagram Part Damage is number 138
138 — Diagram Number
RANGE THERMOSTAT 70/40
WB27X11213
#10
Yes.... I have all those. I was looking for the service manual. It contains the wiring diagrams and schematic for the unit.
As I mentioned..... the microwave section (transformer and magnetron) are either on or off.
100% is continuous on.
30% is on for maybe 10 seconds and off for 20 seconds.
50% is on for maybe 15 seconds and off for 10 seconds.
Every unit is different and the duty cycle time is listed in the service manual.
100%, 50% and 30%
100% is continuous on.
30% is on for maybe 10 seconds and off for 20 seconds.
50% is on for maybe 15 seconds and off for 10 seconds.
Every unit is different and the duty cycle time is listed in the service manual.
#11
Member
Thread Starter
Yes.... I have all those. I was looking for the service manual. It contains the wiring diagrams and schematic for the unit.
As I mentioned..... the microwave section (transformer and magnetron) are either on or off.
100% is continuous on.
30% is on for maybe 10 seconds and off for 20 seconds.
50% is on for maybe 15 seconds and off for 10 seconds.
Every unit is different and the duty cycle time is listed in the service manual.
As I mentioned..... the microwave section (transformer and magnetron) are either on or off.
100% is continuous on.
30% is on for maybe 10 seconds and off for 20 seconds.
50% is on for maybe 15 seconds and off for 10 seconds.
Every unit is different and the duty cycle time is listed in the service manual.
Here it is:
JVM3160RF2SS Wiring Diagram
http://docdro.id/0RHVEPK
Last edited by Danny1976; 04-20-18 at 12:14 PM.
#12
Member
Thread Starter
PJmax, I replaced the thermal fuse again thinking it was a bad fuse I got. I put in another 20amp fuse and did 30sec and the fuse blew in about 3 seconds. I have tested the capacitor, magnetron, transformer, fuses, door switches and I still cant figure out why is the fuse blowing up.
#13
Member
Thread Starter
I believe problem was a bad door switch. The door switch was passing the open and close test, only because I was testing it by manually pressing the switch and checking for continuity. When I tested the switch by opening and closing the door, the switch failed. It seems the door does push the switch far enough or the sensitivity of the switch is bad. I didn't see any severe wear on the door latch or notice any misalignment.
I will order a new switch and will confirm if it worked. The switch with the issue is the middle switch.
I will order a new switch and will confirm if it worked. The switch with the issue is the middle switch.
#14
Yes.... that is what I mentioned back in my first post. The sequence that the switches operate in is critical. The one switch is like a deadmans switch. It shorts whether or not the microwave is running. It must be the last one to actuate when the door is opened.
#15
Member
Thread Starter
The switch is working like its suppose to, but plug is on a constant continuity. So when I tested the switch with the plug connected, I tested the continuity on the plug and it was constant and I assumed the switch was bad.
#17
Member
Thread Starter
I just put everything back and a new fuse and it's working. I will try tomorrow and see if it lasts. I have to tell my kids not to open the door while the microwave is running, because that's how it initially started.
#19
Member
Thread Starter
I got rid of it and bought a Whirlpool from Lowes. It was working as long as the door was not opened while running. But my kids and visitors kept blowing the fuse and I got tired of replacing it.
#21
Member
Join Date: May 2020
Posts: 5
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
I am having the same issue. I've replaced this oven once with the same model thinking I had a bad one 9Price was too attractive and no alterations needed to install 2nd one) but now this one is also blowing fuses. It seems like it blows when someone pulls the door open while the oven is on instead of canceling or waiting for the cycle. I have to get up earlier than the rest of the hose so I know someone keeps stopping the oven mid-cook as I see the message on the display to shut door to continue cooking.
I am using 20A SloBlo fuses.
Does anyone know what door switch I should be replacing?
Model is JVM3160DF2BB
Thank you
I am using 20A SloBlo fuses.
Does anyone know what door switch I should be replacing?
Model is JVM3160DF2BB
Thank you
#22
Welcome to the forums.
More than likely I'll be moving your post to its own thread.
Here's a current running thread with a similar issue.
GE-profile-microwave-trouble.
The problem is not the switches as much as it is the plastic latch assembly.
The two operation switches must open before the monitor switch closes.
It's a matter of mechanical timing.
More than likely I'll be moving your post to its own thread.
Here's a current running thread with a similar issue.
GE-profile-microwave-trouble.
The problem is not the switches as much as it is the plastic latch assembly.
The two operation switches must open before the monitor switch closes.
It's a matter of mechanical timing.
#23
Member
Join Date: May 2020
Posts: 5
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
More to the story
I kept the original microwave PN JVM3160DFBB for parts when I replaced it with the same model (same model was inexpensive at around $180 and I could re-use the same mounts). Then the second microwave started blowing fuses, mostly it seemed when the door was opened while it was cooking although I can't be positive. We replaced the fuse for at least the third time and then on the last time, when we replaced it and plugged the microwave back in, it immediately appeared to start running. No turntable rotation or exhaust fan but it sure sounded like the magnetron was running. Pressing any and all of the switches had no effect. We unplugged it and left it for the time being.
I pulled the door switch assembly from the old microwave. Testing each switch the two black ones appear fine but the gray one would not test. I kept getting around 1K ohms when closed, even after I took the switch apart and cleaned the contacts. At least I may have figured out the issue with the original unit!
In case anyone is interested, here is the info on the three door switches and some questions
Top Switch
PN: KW3AT-16
Normally Open
Black
Middle Switch
PN: KWA3T-16
Normally Closed (Yes, NO and NC versions have same Part Number, very strange to this electronics tech)
Black
Bottom Switch
PN: KW3A
Normally Open
Grey
Specs appear to be the same for the two NO switches - 125/250 VAC, 10A, 30 VDC. All 3 were made by DONGNAN. I'm not sure why the different part numbers/colors and what the differences are. I did try to find out but wasn't able to.
Interestingly, Amazon sells a set of all three switches for around $10.
Seeing that I had a bad switch (as suggested on here) with the old one I thought for sure the new unit would have a bad switch as well. We took the new unit apart, pulled out the switch assembly and tested all three switches only to find out they were working as advertised. We even put the switch assembly back in the unit and with the control panel off tested the switches in place while opening and closing the door. So, we replaced the fuse again only to have the same issue with the magnetron immediately starting to run.
Not sure of what else to do and having the old control panel handy, we put that in in place of the one that came with the second unit. Plugged the power back in and viola, no magnetron running. Everything seemed good, we set the clock, cooked some test items and then my daughter, who is usually the culprit who opens the door while the unit is cooking, did it again and promptly blew the fuse. It happened twice again over the next several days so I can definitely say it WILL blow if you open the door while the unit is running. Luckily, I ordered a 10-pack of fuses!
Right now there is a piece of tape on the handle reminding people not to open the door mid-cook but obviously that's just a stopgap.
So, for people withe magnetron running isses, the problem is somewhere on the control panel. I still don't have an answer as to why my unit blows the fuse every time you open the door while running. Switches were tested, there doesn't appear to be anything broken or cracked on the switch panel so if anyone has any ideas I'm happy to hear them.
Luckily, my son and I can change the fuse in about two minutes now.
Switches
Switch Holder
Switch holder in place
I kept the original microwave PN JVM3160DFBB for parts when I replaced it with the same model (same model was inexpensive at around $180 and I could re-use the same mounts). Then the second microwave started blowing fuses, mostly it seemed when the door was opened while it was cooking although I can't be positive. We replaced the fuse for at least the third time and then on the last time, when we replaced it and plugged the microwave back in, it immediately appeared to start running. No turntable rotation or exhaust fan but it sure sounded like the magnetron was running. Pressing any and all of the switches had no effect. We unplugged it and left it for the time being.
I pulled the door switch assembly from the old microwave. Testing each switch the two black ones appear fine but the gray one would not test. I kept getting around 1K ohms when closed, even after I took the switch apart and cleaned the contacts. At least I may have figured out the issue with the original unit!
In case anyone is interested, here is the info on the three door switches and some questions
Top Switch
PN: KW3AT-16
Normally Open
Black
Middle Switch
PN: KWA3T-16
Normally Closed (Yes, NO and NC versions have same Part Number, very strange to this electronics tech)
Black
Bottom Switch
PN: KW3A
Normally Open
Grey
Specs appear to be the same for the two NO switches - 125/250 VAC, 10A, 30 VDC. All 3 were made by DONGNAN. I'm not sure why the different part numbers/colors and what the differences are. I did try to find out but wasn't able to.
Interestingly, Amazon sells a set of all three switches for around $10.
Seeing that I had a bad switch (as suggested on here) with the old one I thought for sure the new unit would have a bad switch as well. We took the new unit apart, pulled out the switch assembly and tested all three switches only to find out they were working as advertised. We even put the switch assembly back in the unit and with the control panel off tested the switches in place while opening and closing the door. So, we replaced the fuse again only to have the same issue with the magnetron immediately starting to run.
Not sure of what else to do and having the old control panel handy, we put that in in place of the one that came with the second unit. Plugged the power back in and viola, no magnetron running. Everything seemed good, we set the clock, cooked some test items and then my daughter, who is usually the culprit who opens the door while the unit is cooking, did it again and promptly blew the fuse. It happened twice again over the next several days so I can definitely say it WILL blow if you open the door while the unit is running. Luckily, I ordered a 10-pack of fuses!
Right now there is a piece of tape on the handle reminding people not to open the door mid-cook but obviously that's just a stopgap.
So, for people withe magnetron running isses, the problem is somewhere on the control panel. I still don't have an answer as to why my unit blows the fuse every time you open the door while running. Switches were tested, there doesn't appear to be anything broken or cracked on the switch panel so if anyone has any ideas I'm happy to hear them.
Luckily, my son and I can change the fuse in about two minutes now.
Switches
Switch Holder
Switch holder in place
#24
Those switches are not NO or NC ....... they are one or the other. It appears that you may have one shorted and that's what is keeping the microwave running.
Typically on a three switch setup...... two are N.O. which means they are closed when the door is closed and the third switch is N.C. and opens when the door is closed. It's this switch that shorts the magnetron circuit as a safety.
You have to troubleshoot the door switches with everything in place with the main cover removed.
I temporarily disconnect the bottom switch to keep from shorting the circuit but monitor it with a separate meter.
Typically on a three switch setup...... two are N.O. which means they are closed when the door is closed and the third switch is N.C. and opens when the door is closed. It's this switch that shorts the magnetron circuit as a safety.
You have to troubleshoot the door switches with everything in place with the main cover removed.
I temporarily disconnect the bottom switch to keep from shorting the circuit but monitor it with a separate meter.
#26
I don't have the service manual for those GE's but as far as I know there are three switches used. The upper two are function and the bottom one is the fail safe.
The bottom switch always shorts the high voltage section. That is normal and the way it should be.
So what you need to have happen is that both of the upper switches must be open before the bottom one shorts.
It's easiest to use three ohmmeters. Put one on each switch. Watch them. when you open the door..... the top two must be open before the bottom one closes. Testing is done with power disconnected.
The bottom switch always shorts the high voltage section. That is normal and the way it should be.
So what you need to have happen is that both of the upper switches must be open before the bottom one shorts.
It's easiest to use three ohmmeters. Put one on each switch. Watch them. when you open the door..... the top two must be open before the bottom one closes. Testing is done with power disconnected.
#27
Member
Join Date: Nov 2020
Location: United States
Posts: 1
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
May have solved the issue!
Guys I'm new, and i appreciate the help you guys gave me with this thread. I normally don't post on forums, but I think I have figured out my issues with blowing the fuse when opening the door.
I spent a $100 on two new switches, the NO and NC, and it fixed it for a couple of days, and then blew the fuse again, while not using it, over night.
After learning an understanding of how the switches work, from you guys, I did some testing and found that, if I even slightly pulled on the bottom of the handle of the door, our normal way of opening the door because we are short, a switch would click. So I put my meter on the bottom black switch, or the "middle one" which is normally closed, and it would open while the two other switches were closed, therefore shorting all the switches together, according to what I've read on this thread.
If I pull on the top of the handle while putting pressure to open the door, it doesn't trip the NC switch.
The door flexes horribly when you pull the handle from the bottom, and I believe that to be the cause of this issue. I have put a small bubble of silicone on the bottom latch to see if I can hold the bottom black switch in longer while the bottom of the handle is pulled.
I will let you guys know something tomorrow. Thank you for your help.
I spent a $100 on two new switches, the NO and NC, and it fixed it for a couple of days, and then blew the fuse again, while not using it, over night.
After learning an understanding of how the switches work, from you guys, I did some testing and found that, if I even slightly pulled on the bottom of the handle of the door, our normal way of opening the door because we are short, a switch would click. So I put my meter on the bottom black switch, or the "middle one" which is normally closed, and it would open while the two other switches were closed, therefore shorting all the switches together, according to what I've read on this thread.
If I pull on the top of the handle while putting pressure to open the door, it doesn't trip the NC switch.
The door flexes horribly when you pull the handle from the bottom, and I believe that to be the cause of this issue. I have put a small bubble of silicone on the bottom latch to see if I can hold the bottom black switch in longer while the bottom of the handle is pulled.
I will let you guys know something tomorrow. Thank you for your help.
#28
Welcome to the forums.
Interesting..... what you made pick this thread to post on ?
A new member today posted on the other similar thread.
ge-microwave-blowing-internal-fuse-when-door-opened-during-cook-cycle.
Interesting..... what you made pick this thread to post on ?
A new member today posted on the other similar thread.
ge-microwave-blowing-internal-fuse-when-door-opened-during-cook-cycle.
#29
Member
Join Date: May 2020
Posts: 5
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
I believe I solved the problem.
Issue was the fuse kept blowing every time the door was opened while the microwave was operating. I spent 6 years in the Navy as an Aviation Electronics Technician and also taught electronics at a trade school for several years after getting out so I now my way around a switch and how to test them. I took the unit apart and pulled the three switches out and manually tested them with an ohmmeter. Two are NO (Normally Open) and one is NC (Normally Closed). One NO switch always read 100 ohms when closed and even after taking the switch apart and cleaning the contacts it would still read 100 ohms when closed. The other two switches tested fine with the meter. I still had the old microwave so I pulled one of those switches, tested it and put it in the new microwave. I even put all three switches back in the holder, put it in the unit with the control panel off and with power unplugged test all three switches from the back while closing the door. Putting everything back together and testing opening the door while running it still blew the fuse. Before thinking to get a switch from the old microwave, I had looked on Amazon and saw they sold a set of the three switches for around $10. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I ordered them and even though I was pretty sure the switches were good after testing with nothing to lose I decided to replace them. At this point, I could take the control panel off and the switch mount apart in minutes!
Viola! The unit worked and no longer blew the fuse if the door was opened while running! The only thing I could think of is either one of the switches had bouncy contacts or was out of tolerance and needed too much movement to operate fully.
Issue was the fuse kept blowing every time the door was opened while the microwave was operating. I spent 6 years in the Navy as an Aviation Electronics Technician and also taught electronics at a trade school for several years after getting out so I now my way around a switch and how to test them. I took the unit apart and pulled the three switches out and manually tested them with an ohmmeter. Two are NO (Normally Open) and one is NC (Normally Closed). One NO switch always read 100 ohms when closed and even after taking the switch apart and cleaning the contacts it would still read 100 ohms when closed. The other two switches tested fine with the meter. I still had the old microwave so I pulled one of those switches, tested it and put it in the new microwave. I even put all three switches back in the holder, put it in the unit with the control panel off and with power unplugged test all three switches from the back while closing the door. Putting everything back together and testing opening the door while running it still blew the fuse. Before thinking to get a switch from the old microwave, I had looked on Amazon and saw they sold a set of the three switches for around $10. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I ordered them and even though I was pretty sure the switches were good after testing with nothing to lose I decided to replace them. At this point, I could take the control panel off and the switch mount apart in minutes!
Viola! The unit worked and no longer blew the fuse if the door was opened while running! The only thing I could think of is either one of the switches had bouncy contacts or was out of tolerance and needed too much movement to operate fully.
#30
Member
Join Date: Dec 2020
Posts: 1
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
Blowing fuses while running - RESOLVED
I too have had the same issue with the fuse blown under door opens condition while magnetron is powered state issue. My unit had a schematic stuffed into the RH side of the control panel. My son & I came to the conclusion that the unit is designed to render itself inoperable in the event that the magnetron transformer is powered and the 2nd door switch (monitor) is de-actuated by shorting directly to ground.
Let me first stste that this is designed as a safety feature and any modifications to the existing circuit should be performed with the utmost caution and at your own risk. Although I don't like the build, I can understand it from a liability perspective. That being said, I really feel GE should have modified this by now to be less failure prone. I too had purchased a replacement unit but decided to delve further into the failed unit since I had little to loose before installing the new (identical) microwave.
Now to the good stuff. I would highly recommend replacing all 3 switches (at a minimum the 2nd switch) prior to continuing. Reason being is that the monitor switch is one of the components whose contacts take a hit everytime the fuse blows. Keep in mind that the magnetron relay mounted to the control panel is also in this circuit l. In a previous post, someone had mentioned that they had a mag powered condition with the unit in an idle state. I also witnessed this condition once. This can only occur if the relay contacts are hanging in a shorted condition. In my case, I later heard the contacts open again later while I was looking at it. Keep in mind that if the mag relay is delayed at opening its contacts and the door is being opened, you will produce a dead short, blowing the mains fuse. You can verify this by simply disconnecting the 2nd switch. The unit will now function normally provided that the relay contacts aren't remaining in a shorted condition after power is removed by the control pcb to the relay. If this is your situation, as was mine, we've located the issue. Being mindful that you've now defeated half of the protection mechanism designed to prevent the mag from operating with the door open you may want to proceed diagnosing by disconnecting the mag transformer entirely and placing a meter set for VAC in its place. I decided that although this fixes the issue, the resolution was not acceptable. Instead I simply rewired the # 2 (monitor) switch in series with the mag transformer. This retains some level of safety since the mag cannot be powered unless both the mag relay contacts & the monitor switch contacts remain closed. I'm planning on replacing the control panel relay just in case. The monitor switch was replaced also just to be safe.
My model is JVM3160RF4SS
Let me first stste that this is designed as a safety feature and any modifications to the existing circuit should be performed with the utmost caution and at your own risk. Although I don't like the build, I can understand it from a liability perspective. That being said, I really feel GE should have modified this by now to be less failure prone. I too had purchased a replacement unit but decided to delve further into the failed unit since I had little to loose before installing the new (identical) microwave.
Now to the good stuff. I would highly recommend replacing all 3 switches (at a minimum the 2nd switch) prior to continuing. Reason being is that the monitor switch is one of the components whose contacts take a hit everytime the fuse blows. Keep in mind that the magnetron relay mounted to the control panel is also in this circuit l. In a previous post, someone had mentioned that they had a mag powered condition with the unit in an idle state. I also witnessed this condition once. This can only occur if the relay contacts are hanging in a shorted condition. In my case, I later heard the contacts open again later while I was looking at it. Keep in mind that if the mag relay is delayed at opening its contacts and the door is being opened, you will produce a dead short, blowing the mains fuse. You can verify this by simply disconnecting the 2nd switch. The unit will now function normally provided that the relay contacts aren't remaining in a shorted condition after power is removed by the control pcb to the relay. If this is your situation, as was mine, we've located the issue. Being mindful that you've now defeated half of the protection mechanism designed to prevent the mag from operating with the door open you may want to proceed diagnosing by disconnecting the mag transformer entirely and placing a meter set for VAC in its place. I decided that although this fixes the issue, the resolution was not acceptable. Instead I simply rewired the # 2 (monitor) switch in series with the mag transformer. This retains some level of safety since the mag cannot be powered unless both the mag relay contacts & the monitor switch contacts remain closed. I'm planning on replacing the control panel relay just in case. The monitor switch was replaced also just to be safe.
My model is JVM3160RF4SS
#31
The problem is not the switches..... it's typically the latch assembly is worn or cracked.
It's imperative that the switches operate in the correct order.
It's imperative that the switches operate in the correct order.
#32
Member
Join Date: Jan 2021
Posts: 2
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
On my GE microwave I found the culprit initially to be a bad monitor switch, but the ultimate cause was a worn latch board. See details over at the other post (Ge microwave blowing internal fuse when door opened during cook cycle ).
#33
The monitor switch just sits there and does nothing until the latch assembly has a problem.
It wasn't really designed for multiple dead shorts.
Typically..... when the monitor switch shorted.... the people would scrap the microwave.
It wasn't really designed for multiple dead shorts.
Typically..... when the monitor switch shorted.... the people would scrap the microwave.
#34
This has become a very enlightening and lengthily thread. However it has reached the end of it's life as far as adding more members to it. It will remain forever in our searchable archives for viewing. If you need further help with your GE microwave..... feel free to start a new thread and link to this one.
Thanks to all the contributors.
Thanks to all the contributors.