Faucet Rusty
#1
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Faucet Rusty
Just removed (was not easy) some really rusty faucets that are not too old (about 7 years). This was installed by a licensed plumber. The black stuff is the metal fully corroded. How to avoid this situation when putting in replacements? Although it might be to a leaky cartridge, am thinking silicone around base? Spray parts with WD40 before install? Thanks in advance!
Last edited by PJmax; 09-23-17 at 10:24 PM. Reason: reoriented picture
#4
When I reinstall an escutcheon (trimplate) I put a bead of silicone directly on the trim but I leave an inch or so at the bottom open for any wayward water to drain out. After the plate is put on the wall...... put some dishwashing soap on your finger and smooth out the silicone nice and tight to the trim.
Many escutcheon plates have a foam seal on the back but I haven't found them to be a reliable seal.
Oh.... and buy the good plates. The universal ones are crap and rust out quickly.
Many escutcheon plates have a foam seal on the back but I haven't found them to be a reliable seal.
Oh.... and buy the good plates. The universal ones are crap and rust out quickly.
#7
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https://www.pfisterfaucets.com/bath/...ucet-lg49-m0bk
This is the faucet. Pfister uses a PLASTIC ring instead of any rubber gasket at the bottom of the handles. The ring is the thickness of a hair only and IMO does not block any seepage of water which is inevitable especially with people using the sink like its bird bath when washing their face.I was going to use putty until I read the Oatey Stain Free Putty as I have a white porcelain sink until I read the label and it said not to use it on ABS plastic and that it is compatible with most plastics (whatever that means). Don't know if the ring is ABS or what type of plastic it is. What should I do? Put a ring of silicone around the outside of the base of the faucet? Put silicone on the plastic ring and set the metal part of the faucet on top? Would removal later if necessary be really tough if I do the latter?
Right now, I'm thinking out a very thin ring of clear silicone caulk around the outside perimeter of the base of the faucet.
This is the faucet. Pfister uses a PLASTIC ring instead of any rubber gasket at the bottom of the handles. The ring is the thickness of a hair only and IMO does not block any seepage of water which is inevitable especially with people using the sink like its bird bath when washing their face.I was going to use putty until I read the Oatey Stain Free Putty as I have a white porcelain sink until I read the label and it said not to use it on ABS plastic and that it is compatible with most plastics (whatever that means). Don't know if the ring is ABS or what type of plastic it is. What should I do? Put a ring of silicone around the outside of the base of the faucet? Put silicone on the plastic ring and set the metal part of the faucet on top? Would removal later if necessary be really tough if I do the latter?
Right now, I'm thinking out a very thin ring of clear silicone caulk around the outside perimeter of the base of the faucet.
#8
That's shoddy workmanship on the plumbers part. Even a cheap faucet should last 5 to 10 years.
I dont think its the plumbers fault..
Ive put 1000's of faucets on sinks with just plumbers putty.. Putty is just to prevent water from leaking down under cabinet not as a rust barrier..
Your all mis informed..
The issue as I see it is cheap PF faucet with shoddy metals, and a cartridge that leaked and was probably never repaired..
#9
Mike...maybe, but PF is a quality brand and although its possible to be bad material I think installation is questionable! OP never stated that plumbers putty was used. It should've been. If it had been I think this conversation would not be in process
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So what you guys do? Silicone around it but not immerse the faucet in it?
FYI the metal ring really should be make of stainless steel and Pfister should have provided a rubber gasket not thin plastic. I swear that plastic piece is probably more narrow than a toothpick. If they wanted thinness for cosmetic reasons then the visible part can be thin but the wall should extend far up into the faucet handle part to block the water.
FYI the metal ring really should be make of stainless steel and Pfister should have provided a rubber gasket not thin plastic. I swear that plastic piece is probably more narrow than a toothpick. If they wanted thinness for cosmetic reasons then the visible part can be thin but the wall should extend far up into the faucet handle part to block the water.
#11
What can I say? I have two PF faucets, both about 25 years old and both work as good as then day they were bought. I have porcelain sinks, so I used plumbers putty.
Use the silicone and don't be afraid to use a lot of it.
Use the silicone and don't be afraid to use a lot of it.
#12
Most faucets are junk today. throw aways..
PF aint that good..
Heres the issue..
Thats a wide spread faucet the way it looks to me.. The ring/nut was probably steel and it should have been brass. Just take the other side apart and snap a pic...
Dis similar metals I would say..
There are many variations of how those faucets get mounted.. That pic dont tell us much , But not hard to figure out if you do it for a living..
All my opinion of course..
PF aint that good..
Heres the issue..
Thats a wide spread faucet the way it looks to me.. The ring/nut was probably steel and it should have been brass. Just take the other side apart and snap a pic...
Dis similar metals I would say..
There are many variations of how those faucets get mounted.. That pic dont tell us much , But not hard to figure out if you do it for a living..
All my opinion of course..
Last edited by lawrosa; 09-25-17 at 08:10 PM. Reason: added info/spelling
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If you have ever had to remove silicon caulk you will curse the the original installer. It certainly has its uses, don't get me wrong, but it does deteriorate over time, especially if the mating surfaces are contaminated, even with old silicon. Silicon doesn't adhere well to itself, the slightest film will prevent a lasting seal. Plumbers putty is the way to go, which is easily removed and reapplied as necessary. Also, WD40 is not a suitable use over rubber seals or gaskets as it can warp and distort them. I would use a smear of plumbers grease over the stem and lock-nuts or even a light lithium spray.
As lawrosa said, the deterioration in the pic is quite common and caused by dis-similar materials combined with water contaminants.
As lawrosa said, the deterioration in the pic is quite common and caused by dis-similar materials combined with water contaminants.