Selecting the Right Hammer for the Job
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Written by
Doityourself Staff
on Sep 14, 2011
Reviewed by
on Dec 12, 2022
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Hammer Safety Tips:
- Do not strike a hardened steel surface, concrete or stone with a steel claw hammer. Metal chips can result in injury to the user or any bystanders.
- Never use a hammer with a loose, cracked or broken handle—replace the handle.
- Never use a hammer with a chipped, cracked or mushroomed face.
- Discard hammers with cracked claws or eye sections.
- Do not use the hammer handle for striking, and never use it as a pry bar—this could cause the handle to split.
- Always strike the surface squarely—avoid making glancing blows.
- Always wear safety goggles when hammering any object.
- Never strike a hammer with or against another hammer.
- Always use a hammer of the right size and weight for the job.
Nail Hammer
- Used for general carpentry, household chores and nail pulling.
- Should be used only with non-hardened, common or finishing nails.
- Curved claw offers leverage in removing nails and can also cradle a 2x4.
- Choose 16 or 20 oz. weights for general carpentry; choose 7, 10 and 13 oz. weights for fine cabinetry or light-duty driving.
- Available with smooth or waffled (serrated) faces. Milled face is for finishing jobs while waffled face provides more control when hammering large nails into lumber. Some claw hammers feature a side notch on the head for easier pulling of small nails and fasteners.
![close up of framing hammer]()
Framing Hammer
- Also known as a Rip Hammer
- Used mainly by professionals for ripping apart wooden components and demolition work.
- Should be used only with non-hardened, common or finishing nails.
- Choose weights from 20 to 32 oz. for framing and ripping.
- Available with milled or waffled faces to grip the nail head and reduce the effect of glancing blows and flying nails.
![close up of finishing hammer]()
Finishing Hammer
- Used for general carpentry, finishing and cabinet making.
- Head size generally between 7 oz. and 16 oz.
- Smooth striking face so errant strikes don’t leave marks on the wood.
Tack Hammer
![close up of tack hammer]()
- Used for furniture upholstery and to drive small nails and tacks.
- Round face on one end is designed to pick up nails and tacks, while a narrow, square head on the other end is used to drive them.
- Features a magnetic face opposite either a driving face or a claw.
Sledgehammer![close up of sledgehammer]()
- Used for jobs where great force is required such as breaking up concrete or driving heavy spikes.
- Feature long handles from 14” to 36” and heavy heads weighing from 2 lbs. to 20 lbs.
- Double-face sledgehammers feature two identical faces.
- Single-face sledgehammers have one flat face for striking and one wedge-shaped face for splitting wood.
Ball Peen (Ball Pein) Hammer![close up of ball peen hammer]()
- Used with cold chisels for riveting, center punching and forming unhardened metal work.
- Striking face diameter should be about 3/8” larger than the diameter of the head of the object being struck.
- Designed with a regular striking face on one end and a rounded or half ball on the other end instead of a claw.
- Sizes range from 2 oz. to 48 oz. with 12 and 16 oz. the most popular.
- Variations include a cross-peen hammer (with horizontal wedge-shaped face) and a straight-peen hammer (with vertical wedge-shaped face).
![close up of hand drilling hammer]()
Hand Drilling Hammer
- Has short handles and is used for pounding hardened nails into concrete or for using with tools that drive nails and pins into concrete or brick.
- Only hammer to use with star drills, masonry nails, steel chisels and nail pullers.
- Weighs between 2 lbs. and 4 lbs.
- Larger striking surface, generous bevel and special heat-treating minimize chance of chipping the striking face
Soft-Face Hammer![close up of soft-face hammer]()
- Used for assembling furniture, setting dowels and wood projects that requires non-marring blows.
- Available in weights ranging from 4 oz. to 22 oz.
- Feature replaceable heads, typically one soft and one hard
Bricklayer's Hammer![close up of bricklayer's hammer]()
- Used for setting or splitting bricks, and chipping mortar from bricks.
- Features a curved, chisel-like pick and a small, square striking surface.
![close up of shingler's hammer]()
Shingler's Hammer
- Drives roofing nails, assures proper shingle spacing, trims composition and fiberglass shingles.
- Typically includes slotted, retractable cutting blade
![close up of drywall hammer]()
- Used to score, sheet and set nails for drywall work.
- Features a scored head and a notched blade instead of a claw.
- Notch in the blade is used to remove exposed nails.
![close up of mallet]()
Mallet
- Has rubber, plastic, wooden or rawhide head.
- Used to drive chisels or hammer joints together.
- Sizes are specified in head weight or diameter with the exception of wooden mallets, which are specified by head diameter only.
- Comes in variety of shapes and sizes for specific tasks.
- Carpentry mallet features angled head to reduce fatigue; shop mallet with octagonal head is used for flat strikes; rawhide mallet is used in furniture assembly.
Courtesy of NRHA.org